A picture of a human hand holding a dog paw. Text reads: Cautious But Committed: Managing Risk When the Human is Risk Averse

Cautious But Committed: Managing Risk When the Human is Risk Averse

It’s Okay to Be a Little (or a Lot) Scared

Ok, I’m just going to come right out and ask. Do you identify with any, some, most, or all of these statements:
Your pet is exhibiting behavior that is impacting their and your quality of life.
You’ve started to work with a behavior professional and they have discussed the strategies that will help you work toward your goals.

You’re excited and ready to get started!

You start the plan.

At some point you become terrified and have the following thoughts:

  • What if I get it wrong?
  • What if my mistakes have a big impact and I set my pet and myself up for failure or a setback?
  • What if I accidentally trigger the behavior I am working on?
  • What if the consequences of the choices I make are irrevocable?
  • What if…
  • What if…
  • What if…something bad happens?

Thought spirals are enough to make anyone feel undone but they are especially impactful for those of us who are a tiny bit scaredy cat in a world that spends billions of dollars a year to tell us we should “just do it.”

It is normal, common and pretty typical to have some built in reservations about life’s risk. Evolution has made sure that we are hard wired to, you know, stay alive, and assessing risk is an instrumental part of that. It can be a precarious dance between what is reasonable risk or tolerable risk vs. a hard ”no, that’s just too scary right now.” Jumping out of an airplane, I’m talking to you.
My goal for this blog post is for you to be able to assess and navigate risk while still supporting your pet’s progress and taking care of your own emotional well being too.

What Is Risk, Really?

In the simplest of terms, risk is the possibility of something bad happening. With risk comes uncertainty, and living with uncertainty can make any living creature hella uncomfortable both physically and emotionally.

We all do risk assessments, probably multiple times a day, even when we are unaware. Do you ever cross the street? Drive a car? Go swimming with no lifeguards on duty? Eat food that might be just a wee bit past its prime? These are just a few examples of risks we assess on any given day without even realizing that we are doing it. Let’s be honest, some risks just don’t carry the same weight or we are so used to performing certain tasks without anything bad happening, that we hardly give it any thought at all. Our learning history has steered us to a point of feeling safe enough most of the time that we continue to live our lives, which is a very good thing indeed.

When it comes to the skill of behavior modification, there are several factors that can make us feel unsure or unsafe. There is, of course, the real possibility of actual physical harm coming to us, our loved ones, our pets or even the public at large. There is also the emotional toll or the level of stress we can feel if we are concerned about getting something “wrong.” And wouldn’t it be so much easier if we only had to navigate “real” risks as opposed to the risks we imagine in our heads? Because whether a risk is real or perceived the outcome is likely the same: fear and anxiety for the individual experiencing it. If you would like to listen to a great podcast episode that goes into greater detail, give this one a go: Assessing Risk for the Safety Enrichment Category.

Why Your Fear Makes Sense

To be human is to experience some level of fear and/or anxiety. Fear is an adaptive feature of being and staying alive. It keeps us moving when we need to move away from danger. You are not weak because you are afraid. Your body was designed to notice stimuli, make a lightning fast assessment of it and then respond accordingly. This is what living creatures do multiple times per day.

But just because it is a normal feature of humaning doesn’t mean that it can’t get in our way sometimes or make us feel stuck. The hard wiring feature of making quick risk assessments can convince us that there is a bad thing lurking around the corner even if there is not. I am not going to go into all the reasons why that is, but I am going to assume that if you are still reading, you identify with some of these points.

When it comes to modifying behavior, it honestly makes sense that your fear overrides your training plan sometimes. It’s much more common than you might think. Reasonable fears include:

  • Being bitten by your pet
  • Your pet hurting someone else
    Your pets getting into an altercation and hurting each other
  • Being judged by others as you work through the behavior modification process
  • Making a mistake and setting yourself, your pet, or the plan up for a regression in behavior

Part of tackling the behavior modification journey includes being able to identify if your fears are reasonable, communicating your fears to your behavior professional, and helping them troubleshoot how to navigate and mitigate those fears.

How to Assess Risk—For Real

There is risk and then there is RISK, you know? Some risks are gut feelings or imagined and some carry significantly more weight or have evidence to back them up. Here are some quick ideas for assessing the difference between risk, RISK, or something that we conjured up by way of the amygdala hijack:

  • Do you recognize within yourself a learning history or past experiences that makes risk taking more scary for you than it might be for other people? Thoughts aren’t facts and we need to be able to differentiate between the two.
  • Is the fear or worry something that is a gut feeling or is there evidence or data to back it up? Evidence or data might include:
    • An actual bite history or history of injury to people and other animals
    • Patterns of behavior that happen or have happened with enough frequency to make you certain that the behavior will likely be repeated
    • Identifying and understanding your pet’s body language and thresholds and knowing what their stressors or triggers are. Multiple stressors will inherently increase the level of risk.

The next step is to do a risk assessment for yourself which can include the following strategies:

  • Identifying the potential risks
  • Analyzing the likelihood of them happening
  • Analyzing the impact they will likely have if they do happen
  • Planning for eventual scenarios so that you can be prepared with an appropriate action
  • Taking calculated risks that have a low potential for anything bad to happen

Any behavior professional worth their weight in gold knows how to help clients feel empowered to make decisions that work for them and their pets. This includes navigating your current level of risk tolerance. It is extremely important to let your behavior consultant know that you are nervous about navigating the waters of behavior change so that they can help you steer the ship until you are ready to take the helm.

A good consultant will:

  • Go at the pace at which you’re comfortable and not force you to do something you aren’t ready for yet.
  • Know how to break skills into smaller steps to build up your confidence
    Give you a clear outline about whether you should push, drop, or stick based on how you are feeling and how your pet is responding and feeling.
  • Be honest with you about how behavior change works and tell you, unequivocally, that behavior change and progress is not linear. Ever. Regressions are a normal (and expected) part of the process. Which means you aren’t failing and more than likely it’s not your “fault.” Doesn’t that make you feel better already?

Safety Plans Aren’t Failure—They’re Freedom

More likely than not one of the first things a behavior consultant will talk to you about is using management. As we say in the biz, management is a work smarter, not harder strategy. It is used to arrange the environment in such a way that it addresses safety concerns quickly and effectively. Arranging things so that an undesired behavior is less likely to occur is a win for everyone, including your pet. Management strategies can include the following:

  • Using protected contact for pets who bite or cause injury
  • Gates to keep pets out of areas they can’t have access to or to keep pets away from infants, toddlers and young children especially when supervision can not be provided
  • Teaching your pet to love their muzzles so one can be used appropriately and effectively
    Leashes to contain pets so they don’t have access to things that they find stressful

A good behavior consultant will take you, your pet, and your household into consideration when they are helping craft sustainable management strategies. The more open and honest you are about communicating your needs and your pet’s needs, the more they can be creative in helping you create strategies that work for, not against, you.

Your Feelings Matter in the Training Plan

It’s also immensely important that your feelings and experiences are included as part of your pet’s behavior modification plan. If you find that you feel anxious each time you are trying to practice a strategy when your consultant isn’t there to guide you, please share that. Part of the job is to help you figure out a way to implement the behavior change in a way that feels comfortable for YOU, not just your pet. You are a huge part of the journey and in order for progress to be made, you have to feel confident with implementing the strategies. If fear is holding you back, there are things a good consultant can do to help you.

It is not a sign of weakness if you confide your fears or risk aversion to your consultant. If they shame or ridicule you, run far and run fast. They are not cut out for this job. Humans matter too and your feelings are just as valid as your pet’s. Being vulnerable is hard but not impossible and being brave about your experience is a good first step towards practicing calculated risk!

Here’s to harmony,

MaryKaye

Now What?

Are you still feeling a little bit scared? That’s ok! I feel that way sometimes too! Here are some actionable items or information that I hope you will take away from this post: 

  • Baby steps are still steps and still wins worth celebrating.
  • Safety and risk tolerance are in the eye of the beholder and no one is better or more “right” because they like jumping out of planes.
  • Faster isn’t necessarily better but neither is staying stuck and stagnating. The answer: communicating your anxieties or fears with your behavior professional so they can support you. Remember, you are a team! 
  • Try practicing the following strategies: 
    • Working under your threshold so that you can build confidence in a way that feels good for you
    • Practicing in low-stakes environments or taking small calculated risks with the guidance of a professional
    • Journaling or recording training sessions can go a long way towards challenging the reality of how training sessions have gone versus the imagined scenarios you may have created in your head
    • Asking for support from professionals who know that behavior change is not just about your pet’s experience but about yours as well 

Remember, you are not broken. If you live or share your life with a pet that exhibits undesired behaviors and you are ready to take the plunge into unfamiliar territory even when you have doubts, you are quite brave indeed!  Pet Harmony would love to be a part of your journey so don’t hesitate to reach out to find out how we might be able to help you and your pets live more harmoniously at a pace that feels right for both of you.

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A brindle dog looking at a fish tank. Text reads: Is Your Safe Space Actually Safe?

Is Your Safe Space Actually Safe?

A tank filled with water and stone with a, aquatic turtle floating around. The tank is in front of a window.
Zorro the red eared slider's former tank in front of the window.

When we first adopted Oso, we knew we were bringing home a dog who was reactive to both people and other dogs. Not long after, he became reactive to loud and/or large vehicles, too. (I talk more about how I caused that in this podcast episode.) We were prepared for that and got to work right away—especially because we lived in a townhome complex with no yard, which meant potty walks weren’t optional.

 

Inside, our setup seemed ideal. Zorro’s tank lived in front of the front window, which meant Oso couldn’t see out of it. Our back patio faced a tall brick wall. No yard meant no yard stress. No window access meant no watching the world go by and getting riled up. It felt like a win.

And yet… we weren’t making progress. Not at the rate I expected, anyway.

What gives?

One day, I came home on my lunch break and found Oso standing on our bed—on the second floor—barking his fool head off at a dog walking past on the sidewalk. I stood there, confused. Our bedroom balcony faced the brick wall behind our building. How was he seeing the sidewalk?

Turns out, from his height on the bed and the angle of our sliding glass door, he could see the sidewalk. Just enough to react to it.

That was my lightbulb moment. I had been assuming he was peacefully snoozing at home while I was at work, and was fresh and ready to practice our reactivity work in the evenings when I got home. In reality, he was spending his days yelling at passersby and trigger-stacking. No wonder we weren’t making progress!

We put up window film on the balcony doors so he couldn’t see out anymore. And wouldn’t you know it…once he had a space that was actually a break from stress, his progress picked up. 

It Was Going Fine… Until It Wasn’t

I’ve heard variations of this story time and again from my clients—sometimes it’s about reactivity, like with Oso. Other times it’s about interspecies relationships, like a dog who suddenly becomes grumpy with a child they previously tolerated well… until we discover that the child is climbing into the dog’s bed while they’re trying to sleep.

Whatever the scenario, the pattern is the same: when we make decisions based on faulty data, we get faulty results.

 

A brindle dog staring into a tank of water with a fish and an aquatic turtle.
Oso lovingly gazing upon Zorro (probably)

What We Think Is Safe Doesn’t Always Feel Safe

At Pet Harmony, we say it all the time: only the learner decides what’s reinforcing. That same principle applies to safety. Only the learner decides what feels safe.

We can do our best to set up a cozy, quiet corner and call it a “safe space.” But if your pet doesn’t feel safe there, it isn’t. That’s not a failure—it’s just information. And we can work with that.

What feels safe to one individual may not feel safe to another. And what feels safe when you’re home may feel very different when you’re not.

 

So… Is Your Pet’s Safe Space Actually Safe?

Here are a few questions to ask yourself:

  • Does anyone invade that space?
    • Think: kids, other pets, delivery people, roaming Roombas. A “safe space” that’s constantly interrupted can’t serve its intended purpose.
  • Do you really know what your pet is doing when you’re not home?
    • I thought Oso was napping. He was very much not napping. A pet cam can give you helpful insight into what’s actually happening while you’re away.
  • Is your pet choosing to use the space on their own?
    • If they’re avoiding it or only using it when guided, it may not feel as safe as you think.
  • Is it protected from triggers?
    • Can they see or hear (or smell!) things that stress them out? Can those things access the space (like the neighbor’s dog sticking their nose through the fence)? Visual barriers, sound masking, and strategic location can make a big difference.

Safe spaces are a foundational part of helping pets feel secure, emotionally regulated, and ready to learn. But like everything else in behavior, they only work when they work for the individual. If something isn’t progressing the way you expected, it might be time to take a closer look; you might be surprised by what you find.

Here’s to harmony!

Allie

Windows with the bottom pane covered in window film.
Windows looking cute with their textured film.

Now What?

  • Observe your pet over the next few days. Where do they tend to hang out? Is there anywhere they seem to hang out when they’re stressed (good or bad stress)? 
  • Observe your pet in that particular hangout spot. Are they protected from triggers and invaders in that space? If yes, awesome! If not, how can that be changed?
  • If you need help identifying or teaching your pet about safe spaces, our consultants can help! 
White and dark grey dog stretches in front of a baby gate. Text reads: Protected Contact at Home: Creating Safe Spaces for Pets and People

Protected Contact at Home: Creating Safe Spaces for Pets and People

 

Content warning: This blog includes brief discussions of aggressive behavior toward humans.

When I was a young intern during my undergrad years, my cubicle neighbor and I joked about “the walls between us.” Even though they didn’t go all the way to the ceiling, they were high and thick enough to cause deeply silly misunderstandings when we’d try to talk, or enough of an obstacle that when we’d toss things over they’d go rogue and bonk somebody on the head or end up in their coffee. I think about that sometimes as I’m attempting to hurl a pizza crust over the modified x-pen that blocks off my living room and it ends up on the floor just out of reach of my dog Petey, and I have to go hand it to him instead. 

Over on the podcast, Emily and Allie discussed training aggressive dogs this week. In proper Pet Harmony fashion, they started by defining their terms. “Aggressive dog” is not a particularly accurate label, and is not favored by our fearless leaders. It is, however, a commonly used label in the field. So let’s start off here by defining our terms so we’re all on the same page.

  •  Aggression: Relying on fight over flight in periods of high stress. The “fight” here includes behaviors such as growling, barking, snarling, lunging, muzzle punching, snapping, or biting. These behaviors are meant to make others move away (aka distance-increasing behaviors). They are observable actions that a dog uses based on their underlying emotions or inner experiences, which cannot be observed, obviously. 
  • Management: Arranging the environment, to the extent it is possible, for the safety and comfort of all individuals sharing the space. In pet homes, management refers mostly to setting up an animal’s environment to prevent the rehearsal of unwanted behaviors. 
  • Protected contact: Using management strategies to limit the amount of physical contact it is possible for pets to have with other individuals (humans or non humans). Physical barriers such as gates, crates, and doors, or fences are the most common implements used for protected contact. 
  • Free contact: No barriers or other strategies for preventing contact. Pets are free to interact with others.
  • Semi/partial-protected contact: The pet can still make physical contact with humans within a certain radius or while wearing protective gear. Leashes and muzzles are the most common implements used for semi- or partial-protected contact.  

I consider myself, among other things, to be Petey the Wondermutt’s Stimulus Curator (meaning when possible I carefully choose what he is exposed to). Living with a dog who fits the definition of aggressive, it is a job I take very seriously, and protected contact through management is a big part of our enrichment plan. 

 

Why use management?

Humans use management strategies all the time, even if we don’t think of it that way. If you try not to go grocery shopping when you’re hungry, you’re managing your environment to prevent the rehearsal of unwanted behaviors: coming home with a half-eaten pack of oreos and a dusting of crumbs in your car from hollering at fellow drivers with a mouth full of dry cookies while you were hangry, for example. We also use semi-protected contact when we do things like blocking our shared calendars, closing the office door, and putting in noise cancelling earbuds when we want to let other humans know they do not have access to us. Changing the environment to change behavior. Simple, right? 

 

Observe with your senses, not your stories

Observations and outcomes guide our enrichment plans, and because safety and security are aspects of enrichment, they also guide our management plans. As Allie writes in this blog, some strategies for management and protected contact can be lifelong endeavors based on your observations, outcomes, and assessment of and/or aversion to risk. 

I’m not willing, for example, to risk a bite to my parents (or anyone, for that matter). I have a learning history of Petey using aggressive behaviors when people approach us–both toward the approaching human and myself. This includes an unfortunate incident where he jumped high enough to snap in another human’s face while they were standing fully upright. One of a number of incidents seared into my brain that fuel my own risk aversion. 

I have observed that when he can see and hear someone coming into our home, he barks, growls, lunges, and paces around. When my parents visit, if I want him to be comfortable, which can be observed as settling and resting, I can simply put him upstairs in his room with a long-term calming project with some kind of sound masking (music, brown noise, box fan, or a combination). He has access to multiple surfaces of different temperatures and textures where he can rest and not worry about the people in our house.

Am I sad that my parents will never be able to meet my sweet, handsome boy in the flesh? Yes. I am very close to my parents. My mom’s own love of animals had a huge impact on the way I interact with the various beings I choose to share my life with. When I see her snuggled up with the beautiful goober that is my brother’s dog, I do wish she could love and appreciate Petey the same way. That she could experience the warm perfection of his velvety ears, or feel his heavy noggin perched on her leg, or hear him gently snoring next to her on the couch.

But it is more important that both Petey and my mom feel safe in my home, and for that reason, their brief interactions will only ever happen with a barrier between them. As Emily and Allie mention on the podcast, when working with aggression, sometimes free contact is never our goal. 

 

 

As I mention in this blog, the people close to me appreciate Petey in different ways. My mom has a Petey sticker on the helmet she wears when she scoots around on her electric scooter, and Peter and his cousin Skittles trade places on the lock and home screen of her phone frequently. 

 

Risk and reward

What if I told you that we DO have guests stay in our house sometimes? It’s true! 

Allie has a saying when she talks about using protected contact as part of a behavior change plan. “Move at the pace of the least comfortable individual.”

There are a couple of humans savvy enough to have gazed upon the elusive staffy-muppet cryptid that is Peter in real life, and his Auntie Jordan is one of them. A behavior professional herself, we are both comfortable with her ability to watch Petey’s body language and modify her own. When she visits, Petey still stays in his area behind a double gate, but I will set her up in the living room behind an x-pen and let Petey come downstairs to go outside. He can see her sitting in the living room, and she can look at how cute he is out of the corner of her eye. She also has to walk past his room to get to the room she stays in. I set up the Treat ‘n Train (a remote treat dispenser) in his room and place the remote on a hook in the hall. When she needs to venture upstairs, she’ll either boop the Treat ‘n Train or toss some treats into his room on her way by. 

It’s a big deal for me to have someone I trust enough to let him out while they are in view.  If you will remember, Petey has a history of redirecting his aggressive behaviors toward whoever is closest to him, which is often me. So the least comfortable individual in my house is often…me.  

Two baby gates placed one on top of the other in a hallway with a blanket over both gates for a visual barrier.
When guests are in our home, we use two baby gates with a blanket on top for a physical and visual barrier.

 

Safety, security, and protected contact

I mentioned that Petey struggles with unknown humans moving toward us when he is on leash, but he also struggles inside our home with movement in and around his personal bubble, and will use the aggressive behaviors I listed earlier to communicate how he’s feeling. Because we live in a 100+ year old home, there are many narrow spaces that make for some tricky grumble and growl zones. Moving around in our house can be pretty complicated when we are all home, so the management setups we use, along with the training we’ve done with Pete, allow us to de-escalate tension around the house. They also add a layer of predictability into the life of a dog who thinks humans moving around are sus. 

Scruffy white and dark grey dog laying on a mat chewing a bully stick safely behind a baby gate.
A baby gate in the hall gives Petey access to two rooms upstairs. Here he is working on a long term calming project (chewing a bully stick).

Here are a few ways we use management and protected contact strategies in our household to help everyone feel and stay safe:

  1. Order of operations – We’ve figured out if we move in and out of spaces in a predictable order, Petey is less likely to struggle. If we can’t be predictable in our movements, Petey is behind a gate.
  2. The trash tent phenomenon – It is not uncommon for dogs who have issues with people in their space to also have body handling and resource guarding issues, and that is the case with Petey. When we first started working with our wonderful VB, she suggested that Petey have a space for chewing high value items. We got a pop-up x-pen that was meant for small dogs, and started using that as a tent for him to chew in. Today, we use it mostly for giving him things to shred, hence the trash tent moniker. We have developed skills around cueing Petey into a number of safe spaces to work on long term calming projects or chewing. 
  3. Moving and grooving – We have an arsenal of cues that help us move and station Petey away from us so that we can also move and avoid conflict. This includes cueing him into safe spaces, such as behind the gate in the living room. This is where our Treat ‘n Train is generally stationed. It allows us to boop snacks to him and stations him at the far end of the living room.
  4. Say what you mean – We also have cues to let Petey know what is about to happen in predictable ways. For example, when I put him in the car I say “clip” before I clip him into the car, then “zip” when I zip up the side of the seat protector. 
  5. Roger that – Anyone who is in the house has to know where Petey is at all times. After Big Man had surgery to repair a torn bicep tendon, we got some walkie-talkies so we could quickly check in (complete with CB slang). We usually just text or call each other, or use predictable cues aimed at the humans in the house, like hollering “coming down!” before we descend the stairs with Petey. 
  6. Well would ya look at that  – There is a cutout in the wall between our kitchen and living room. We often use this “drive through window” to play look at that while one of us moves around. If I’m moving around, Big Man will stand in the kitchen and cue “where’s Tiff?,” let him look, and hand him a treat when he looks back. We often play this as Big Man leaves out the front door, which is a place where Petey has had many big feelings.
  7. Party time, excellent  – Petey is muzzle trained (aka his party hat), and wears a harness with a handle on it. Gear + predictable cues + cooperative care training + meds join forces when we visit the vet and have a well-established routine of stationing Petey with his shoulder pinned to the wall (with my leg), and me holding his harness handle and feeding him while the fabulous Dr. Quinn stealthily delivers the sedation injection.
A white and dark grey dog pokes his head through an opening in a wall. The opening is framed with wood trim and there is a vase of flowers on the ledge next to him. Dog supplies appear on the shelf in front of him.
Petey sidles up to the “drive through window” in the kitchen.

If all of this sounds like a lot of work; it is. But Petey didn’t choose to struggle the way he does any more than I chose to have migraines or asthma or my own struggles with anxiety. We are responsible for a complex, sentient being with an unknown background, and we love and care for him the very best way we can while keeping everyone safe. And “the walls between us” don’t stop us from having fun.

Here’s to harmony!

Tiffany

 

Now What?

Predictability and management are useful strategies for any pet, not just aggressive dogs! Can you think of some situations where your pet struggles with being startled or upset? Is there a way you can set up the environment differently? If not, can you add a predictable cue that might help them feel better? For example, if your dog growls when you walk past them in the hall, try bowling some treats or a toy (something they’ll get up and go after) into the closest room. Say something like “coming through!” Practiced enough, “coming through!” could be a cue for your dog to get up and move and feel better about you coming through the hall.

Could you use some help tweaking your management plan? We’re here for you! Sometimes it takes some extra support to figure out what will work. It certainly has taken a village for us. 💖

White and dark grey dog playing tug with a very tall man. There is a colorful gate between them and the man holds a toy over the gate so the dog can grab it.
Pete and Big Man play tug with a stuffed ear of corn over the gate. We do live in the Midwest, afterall.

 

How I Accidentally Taught My Turtle to Escape

I talk about my dog, Oso, all of the time but he’s not the only critter in our household. I’ve mentioned my turtle, Zorro, a couple of times throughout the course of this blog but today I want to devote an entire post to him. Specifically, I want to talk about a trainer/owner failure: how I accidentally taught him to escape from his tank. 

 

My management failure

A year or two ago I changed Zorro’s setup by building a platform that sat on top of his tank to allow for more water in it. As soon as it was installed, I questioned whether or not he would be able to escape from his new setup. However, instead of doing something preemptively about that, I decided to take the “wait and see” approach. 

 

 

This was mistake number one. Zorro tries to escape whatever enclosure he’s in. This has been true of every enclosure I’ve put him in in the last 12 years I’ve had him. I knew he would try to escape this new setup and I knew that it was more possible than it was with his previous setup. Yet, I still took the wait and see approach, even though I knew better. 

Sure enough, it took only a few days for him to start trying to climb out. Luckily, his tank is in my office so I was right there to put him back in. It quickly became clear that I would need to actually have some management solution in place to keep him safe. Instead of developing a great management solution, though, I put up a half-assed management solution. Again, I questioned whether or not it would be effective. 

 

 

This was mistake number two. Instead of putting a great management solution in place that I knew was going to be effective, I opted for the easiest solution I could think of and I still questioned whether or not it would be effective. Of course that didn’t work and he was able to climb out of his tank. What this did was teach him that if he just pushes the barrier a little harder, then it will work. 

Since that didn’t work I reinforced it a little more. I knew it still wasn’t perfect, but it should’ve been much harder for him to escape. However, because I previously [accidentally] taught him that if he pushes against the barrier harder then he’ll be able to escape, he was now able to get out of this more difficult setup, too. Mistake number two came back to bite me and provide mistake number three. 

 

 

This situation was 100% my fault. I knew Zorro’s past behavior; I knew he’d try to escape this setup and I knew that it was likely possible. Even with all of that knowledge, I still chose to take my chances and feign surprise when what I knew would happen actually happened because it was easier for me to do it that way. I didn’t have to put in the extra effort or forethought by taking the “wait and see” approach. And, because I didn’t do what I should have done the first or even the second time, I taught Zorro to try harder and how to escape more successfully.

The way that I taught him to try harder is through something called “shaping”. Shaping means reinforcing gradual approximations– or baby steps– towards an end goal behavior. This is the technique frequently used for teaching really cool tricks. Below is a quick video example of shaping:

 

 

How I used shaping here [albeit without trying] was by setting up gradually more challenging situations for him to succeed at escaping. If I had put a more rigorous management solution in place after the first time Zorro tried to escape, he would have failed and learned that it doesn’t work to try harder. However, because I set up an only slightly more difficult approach he did learn that pushing harder worked and was able to use that knowledge later for the next only slightly more difficult approach. 

 

 

The right way

This past summer I finally started building the dream enclosure I’ve been thinking about for Zorro for a while. And this time, I decided to do it right when it came to him escaping. When thinking through the design for his enclosure, I took into account all of the ways I could possibly think of for him to escape. I knew I wanted a plexiglass barrier surrounding it for aesthetic reasons, but decided to make the barrier taller so it wouldn’t be possible for him to reach the top and pull himself up and out. Anything that’s tall enough for him to climb on to then climb out is against a wall. We anchored the back walls so he can’t move the barrier off and slip under. 

When the top and barrier finally went up and he was able to move around, we reassessed our management strategy to make sure what we assumed and expected to happen were accurate. While watching him and testing the barrier for ourselves, we decided there might be one more possible way for escape: if he pushed it hard enough could he break the adhesive holding the sides together or bow out the plexiglass enough to slip out? Instead of taking our chances, we grabbed a few brackets so that even if he pushed he wouldn’t be able to bow or break the sides. We’re a few weeks in and he’s tried to escape as he always does. This time, though, he’s been unsuccessful and his attempts are dwindling. 

 

Still some work to do but it’s now functional!

 

How does this relate? A dog counter surfing example

The reason I wanted to tell this story is because I often see pet parents go through this same process of taking a half-hearted approach to management and inadvertently shaping their pet to be better at foiling those management attempts.

One behavior that I frequently see this happening with is counter surfing. Dogs are opportunistic scavengers. They are made to search for food and eat it when opportunity strikes. It’s what they do. Even though we know that, many people still opt for the “wait and see” approach when bringing home a new dog, just like I did at first with Zorro’s new platform. The “wait and see” approach here is to leave food out on the counter (even if it’s in a bag) and leave the dog unattended in the room. 

When that doesn’t work, many people will opt for pushing the food back on the counter so it’s harder to access but will still leave them unattended with the food on the counter. This is the part where we inadvertently train our dogs that if they try harder, they can still access the food. 

When that doesn’t work some people opt for the sink but will continue to leave them unattended. Again, we usually end up inadvertently shaping our dogs that they can still access the food if they try harder.

A more solid management solution to start with instead is to leave no food on the counters when the dog is unattended and if you do need to leave the kitchen while you’re cooking (when it’s difficult to put food away) to then keep the dog out of the kitchen using baby gates, doors, etc. It’s much harder to counter surf when you’re not in the kitchen when food is on the counters. 

 

Now what?

  • Think through your pet’s current behavior and learning history. Is there a behavior you’ve been trying to manage but are instead inadvertently shaping your pet to foil your attempts? 
  • Think about a management solution that would make it so your pet couldn’t perform that behavior. Chances are you may have already heard of the management solution but maybe thought it was too cumbersome (like I did with Zorro’s platform!) Is there a way to make it less cumbersome or easier to enact?
  • Enact your management solution and start breathing easier!
  • If you’re having trouble coming up with a management solution, email us at info@petharmonytraining.com to schedule a session or check out our Setting Yourself Up for Success: Behavior Modification Basics course. 

 

Happy training!

Allie